As the only white people for miles, Matt and I have developed a new appreciation for what it means to be a minority and stand out in a crowd. You're always being watched. Everyone notices everything you do. You can't blend in.
Kenyans have a word in Swahili for white people: wazungu (the Maasai say mazungu). Maasai have a word for white people: olashumpai/enkashumpai (fem.).
But when our friend Celmali came to visit, the Maasai were confused. Celmali is from New York City, so English is her first language. She's learning Kiswahili, but definitely can't speak Maa. What confused everyone here? She's black. The Maasai couldn't believe that there are black people in the US. Now their word for us, olashumpai, doesn't work, because it meant white people, but now it needed to mean non-Maasai. So they started calling her enkashumpai narok (the black-white person).
All the color confusion was an opportunity to engage Celmali about race here and in the US. Celmali loves being able to blend in here. If she doesn't talk, no one knows that she's not from Kenya. I get frustrated when people I don't know shout "mazungu!" or "how are yous?" just because I'm white. Because I'm white, people assume I'm rich, so they can charge me higher prices for everything. And yet, at least here, being the minority is a good thing. In general, people respect me, just because I'm white. But at home in the US, it's not that way at all. I know that I can't possibly begin to understand the challenges that minorities go through, but I'm struck by how difficult it must be to walk into a room and be the only person of color. Or Celmali was sharing how you go into a store and people watch you like a hawk, because they think you'll steal, just because of your skin color.
When Matt and I are back in the States, I want to be a lot more intentional about overcoming racism, recognizing my own white privilege and more purposefull building relationships with non-whites. I think I have a lot to learn, but I know that God calls us to walk in unity as His Body. I hope that I can bring home the new understanding I've gained here and work to fight the racism so inherent in our society.
Monday, December 28, 2009
Pictures from Vipingo Part III
Getting aboard a dhow south of Mtwapa.
Just for Carolyn!
Us on the boat ride
Me on the beach.
Pictures from Vipingo Part II
Us at the beach
Sunrise over the Indian Ocean
Steph reading. The coral wall makes nice hooks to hang things from.
Sunrise
Pictures from our beach trip
The house as we walk in from the beach. Note the ladder to get up the rock wall.
Swimming at sunset.
The beach
View from the upstairs balcony
Enjoy!
Odyssey of the Modem: Part III
Monday: After calling the accountant multiple times, I finally got a response. He was out of town and according to him, he gave the modem to another staff worker days ago. I call the other staff worker who assures me the accountant is lying. Monday is market day, so I figured if I went to market I'd get to the bottom of things. I go along with Simion (the other staff worker) to stake out the accountant's father's house.
We go first to the accountant's place in town. We find his brother who assures us his father is back at home. We head to the other side of town to the father's house when we see a vehicle coming down the road. It's the accountant's dad heading to town. We wave down the truck and learn that the dad has no idea where the modem is. We catch a ride with him, and he vows to help us find the modem. We go to the accountant's brother's shop, a second store, everybody seems to be unsure of where the modem is. Finally we see that next to the accountant's apartment is a small internet cafe. One brother is running it and lo-and-behold, there is the modem. The accountant apparently had been "borrowing" the modem and using it for his brother's new internet cafe. We quickly shamed the brother into giving us the modem and we brought it back to the office.
So ends the odyssey of the modem!
We go first to the accountant's place in town. We find his brother who assures us his father is back at home. We head to the other side of town to the father's house when we see a vehicle coming down the road. It's the accountant's dad heading to town. We wave down the truck and learn that the dad has no idea where the modem is. We catch a ride with him, and he vows to help us find the modem. We go to the accountant's brother's shop, a second store, everybody seems to be unsure of where the modem is. Finally we see that next to the accountant's apartment is a small internet cafe. One brother is running it and lo-and-behold, there is the modem. The accountant apparently had been "borrowing" the modem and using it for his brother's new internet cafe. We quickly shamed the brother into giving us the modem and we brought it back to the office.
So ends the odyssey of the modem!
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Maasai Hand Signs: Part 3
Merry Christmas
As the Maasai say it, "Merry Christmas!" -yes that's right, they don't even try to translate Merry Christmas into Maa, they just say it in English. We had a period of about 10 minutes in church today where every group of people (children, youth, women, men, leaders) had to stand up and say, "Merry Christmas" to everybody else. Whoa.
Other than gratuitous English usage, Christmas was a bit strange in general. I'm so used to the Christmas hype starting around the fourth of July, that it was weird for Christmas to sneak up on us. Without wreaths everywhere, strange blow-up snowmen and santa clauses, more lights than in all of Kenya and Christmas themed everything, Christmas take on a different feel. In a lot of ways it felt like just another day. Most of the morning we relaxed and read books as we waited for church to start. We had a meal with everybody from church, but we do that at least once a month. In some ways, we lost the "feeling" of Christmas because all that I've learned as "Christmas" is not here.
At the same time, Christmas was still special. Steph and I celebrated on Christmas eve with our own candlelight service. We had time to reflect on "God with us" and even had our own communion (I hadn't had communion since August since they don't do it regularly in Najile). Also, because of the rain, there was a clear sense of God's blessing. To have so much rain at once was hard to imagine after months of drought.
So, Merry Christmas! I hope you all were able to appreciate the traditions of Christmas, as without them Christmas just is different. Also, take time to remember the gift of Christ and the reality of "Ketii Enkai te nebo iyiook" -God is with us.
Other than gratuitous English usage, Christmas was a bit strange in general. I'm so used to the Christmas hype starting around the fourth of July, that it was weird for Christmas to sneak up on us. Without wreaths everywhere, strange blow-up snowmen and santa clauses, more lights than in all of Kenya and Christmas themed everything, Christmas take on a different feel. In a lot of ways it felt like just another day. Most of the morning we relaxed and read books as we waited for church to start. We had a meal with everybody from church, but we do that at least once a month. In some ways, we lost the "feeling" of Christmas because all that I've learned as "Christmas" is not here.
At the same time, Christmas was still special. Steph and I celebrated on Christmas eve with our own candlelight service. We had time to reflect on "God with us" and even had our own communion (I hadn't had communion since August since they don't do it regularly in Najile). Also, because of the rain, there was a clear sense of God's blessing. To have so much rain at once was hard to imagine after months of drought.
So, Merry Christmas! I hope you all were able to appreciate the traditions of Christmas, as without them Christmas just is different. Also, take time to remember the gift of Christ and the reality of "Ketii Enkai te nebo iyiook" -God is with us.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Odyssey of the Modem: Part II
Update from Maasailand:
The accountant's father may be out of jail but we have a problem. Rain. Somehow, in one of the driest places, during a drought, it decided to flash flood so that the only road to the house of the father of the accountant is washed out.....
The accountant's father may be out of jail but we have a problem. Rain. Somehow, in one of the driest places, during a drought, it decided to flash flood so that the only road to the house of the father of the accountant is washed out.....
The Odyssey of the Modem
A cell modem, a small device with a USB port. A simple thing that brings information, communication, to the tips of our fingers in the remotest of communities. This is a story about a lost modem, a modem that was taken from its home and could not find its way back. This is a story of the people who fought for the modem so that they could skype their parents on Christmas. This is a story of adventure, of corruption, and a lot of Maasai.
It started on a friday. The power was out, only the accountant was at the office, the week was drawing to a close. The modem sat there, waiting to be used with its unlimited internet access and quick download speeds. The accountant hatched a plan, if I take the modem home for the weekend, I can check facebook for days and nobody will notice. Tucked safely into his pocket, the modem began its journey.
Days pass, websites are accessed, pictures are viewed, statuses are updated. Sunday flows gently into Monday and a new week begins. However, as the workday progresses, the accountant and the modem are nowhere to be seen. Reports need to be sent and emails written as the office is about to close for the holidays. Where is the modem?
Tuesday, the accountant appears, but without the modem. Where is it, what happened, why did you take it, the questions come quickly. He issues a shallow apology and promises to bring it the next day. The office will be closed but the rest of the staff can come in anyway to finish their emailing.
Wednesday, a phone call is placed. Where is the modem? The accountant doesn't have it, he gave it to his father. Where is your father? In Nairobi. When is he coming back? ….... he's in jail. The accountant's father, the only man with keys to the house holding the modem hostage is stuck in jail for a traffic violation. Fuming, the staff wonders, why did he take the modem home, why did he give it to his father, what was the accountant thinking? The office is paralyzed waiting for the Kenyan police, voted the most corrupt institution of East Africa, to release the father of somebody who shouldn't have the modem in the first place.
Will the modem find its way home? Will the staff be able to finish its work before Christmas. Will the Kistler's families get to skype with them over the holidays? Will the accountant's dad be released by the new year? Stay tuned, for the thrilling conclusion of “The Odyssey of the Modem.”
It started on a friday. The power was out, only the accountant was at the office, the week was drawing to a close. The modem sat there, waiting to be used with its unlimited internet access and quick download speeds. The accountant hatched a plan, if I take the modem home for the weekend, I can check facebook for days and nobody will notice. Tucked safely into his pocket, the modem began its journey.
Days pass, websites are accessed, pictures are viewed, statuses are updated. Sunday flows gently into Monday and a new week begins. However, as the workday progresses, the accountant and the modem are nowhere to be seen. Reports need to be sent and emails written as the office is about to close for the holidays. Where is the modem?
Tuesday, the accountant appears, but without the modem. Where is it, what happened, why did you take it, the questions come quickly. He issues a shallow apology and promises to bring it the next day. The office will be closed but the rest of the staff can come in anyway to finish their emailing.
Wednesday, a phone call is placed. Where is the modem? The accountant doesn't have it, he gave it to his father. Where is your father? In Nairobi. When is he coming back? ….... he's in jail. The accountant's father, the only man with keys to the house holding the modem hostage is stuck in jail for a traffic violation. Fuming, the staff wonders, why did he take the modem home, why did he give it to his father, what was the accountant thinking? The office is paralyzed waiting for the Kenyan police, voted the most corrupt institution of East Africa, to release the father of somebody who shouldn't have the modem in the first place.
Will the modem find its way home? Will the staff be able to finish its work before Christmas. Will the Kistler's families get to skype with them over the holidays? Will the accountant's dad be released by the new year? Stay tuned, for the thrilling conclusion of “The Odyssey of the Modem.”
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Vacation at the Beach
Greetings from Vipingo!
This past week Steph and I took our first real vacation together since we’ve been in Kenya. It was organized by friends from MCC who rent a house along the Kenyan coast (that’s on the east side of Africa next to the Indian Ocean) north of Mombasa. That couple, Jonathan and Marti, has two small children; Elise (pronounced El-e-zay) and Calena ages 4 and 2. We also traveled with a third MCC couple working in Kinshasa (DRC) who know Jonathan and Marti from Quebec.
This was a trip we looked forward to for months. Marti and Jonathan had found the house for a two month trip this spring to help Jonathan train local artisans how to better produce and sell their products. The place is out of their budget, but the price was reduced because it was low season and they were able to re-coup their losses by inviting other couples to stay in paradise with them, $50/couple/night. A parade of MCCers looking for a break followed them to the shore.
It is almost beyond words how beautiful this place is. Along a stretch of land recently sold off by a sisal plantation, stand about 10 houses. They all are built on cliffs that overlook the ocean. In some areas there are beaches below the coral rock, in others, the rock drops straight to the ocean. The vegetation is lush, green with palms, wild flowers and bushes. The houses are mostly built in a Swahili style, a fusion of Arabic, African, and Portuguese architecture. There are four bedrooms upstairs, with two full baths and more importantly, a covered deck connecting the entire floor. Often in the morning, we spent time there watching the sun rise over the Indian Ocean.
The downstairs area is one big room with an entranceway flanked by pillars down its center. The building is designed for air, with wind constantly flowing through each room, never letting the heat (which is considerable) overcome a space. The deck upstairs is matched by the deck below, where most of our dining and reading took place. The kitchen is notable mainly for the cook who works there. His food was excellent, featuring omelets in the morning, and various lobster, prawn, and kingfish dishes for lunch and dinner. The fish were all caught by locals who come to sell their daily catch at our doorstep.
A set of stone steps lead away from the deck to the pool. Kidney shaped and built in-ground, the pool area is pleasantly situated for the shade to cover it by 4pm and stays warm all day. Below the pool is a pathway to the cliffs where a ladder can be set to allow access to the ocean. The ocean floor is covered in sea urchins up to 1ft in diameter (including spines) and numerous rock pools where various coral grow.
The best beach is found about 10 minutes down the road where rocks hang over the sandy beach. The coral is perfect for hanging things as it includes thousands of small outcroppings that make excellent hooks. We’ve tried snorkeling, swimming, and even had the opportunity to take a boat ride on a traditional sailboat local fisherman use.
Our time here has been heavenly. We sleep, we eat together, we play board games, (always my favorite) and swim in paradise. While writing this blog I was offered a mango smoothie and said to myself, it doesn’t get much better than this.
This past week Steph and I took our first real vacation together since we’ve been in Kenya. It was organized by friends from MCC who rent a house along the Kenyan coast (that’s on the east side of Africa next to the Indian Ocean) north of Mombasa. That couple, Jonathan and Marti, has two small children; Elise (pronounced El-e-zay) and Calena ages 4 and 2. We also traveled with a third MCC couple working in Kinshasa (DRC) who know Jonathan and Marti from Quebec.
This was a trip we looked forward to for months. Marti and Jonathan had found the house for a two month trip this spring to help Jonathan train local artisans how to better produce and sell their products. The place is out of their budget, but the price was reduced because it was low season and they were able to re-coup their losses by inviting other couples to stay in paradise with them, $50/couple/night. A parade of MCCers looking for a break followed them to the shore.
It is almost beyond words how beautiful this place is. Along a stretch of land recently sold off by a sisal plantation, stand about 10 houses. They all are built on cliffs that overlook the ocean. In some areas there are beaches below the coral rock, in others, the rock drops straight to the ocean. The vegetation is lush, green with palms, wild flowers and bushes. The houses are mostly built in a Swahili style, a fusion of Arabic, African, and Portuguese architecture. There are four bedrooms upstairs, with two full baths and more importantly, a covered deck connecting the entire floor. Often in the morning, we spent time there watching the sun rise over the Indian Ocean.
The downstairs area is one big room with an entranceway flanked by pillars down its center. The building is designed for air, with wind constantly flowing through each room, never letting the heat (which is considerable) overcome a space. The deck upstairs is matched by the deck below, where most of our dining and reading took place. The kitchen is notable mainly for the cook who works there. His food was excellent, featuring omelets in the morning, and various lobster, prawn, and kingfish dishes for lunch and dinner. The fish were all caught by locals who come to sell their daily catch at our doorstep.
A set of stone steps lead away from the deck to the pool. Kidney shaped and built in-ground, the pool area is pleasantly situated for the shade to cover it by 4pm and stays warm all day. Below the pool is a pathway to the cliffs where a ladder can be set to allow access to the ocean. The ocean floor is covered in sea urchins up to 1ft in diameter (including spines) and numerous rock pools where various coral grow.
The best beach is found about 10 minutes down the road where rocks hang over the sandy beach. The coral is perfect for hanging things as it includes thousands of small outcroppings that make excellent hooks. We’ve tried snorkeling, swimming, and even had the opportunity to take a boat ride on a traditional sailboat local fisherman use.
Our time here has been heavenly. We sleep, we eat together, we play board games, (always my favorite) and swim in paradise. While writing this blog I was offered a mango smoothie and said to myself, it doesn’t get much better than this.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Bible Study
Just an update on our Bible Study. We've continued to study the book of John and have now incorporated a regular language lesson at the beginning to teach people how to read. We've seen a whole lot of enthusiasm and joy as we teach basic words and sounds. This week we introduced the final vowel sounds and it was a great joy seeing two of our students write letters, probably for the first time. Praise God for the great opportunity we have to serve the community here through studying of His word.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Maasai Hand Signs Part 2
Top: are (ah-ray) = two, make a peace sign and wiggle your fingers slowly back and forth
Middle: uni (oo-nee) = three, straighten your pointer finger & bring tip of your thumb and middle finger to 2nd knuckle of your pointer finger
Bottom:
on guan (own-wan) = four,
cross your pointer and middle finger
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