On Tuesday, this past week, we visited a water pan in Mariani, not far from the town of Mosiro (which is actually on the Kenyan map we have). A water pan is just a dam carved out to provide water to the community. In this case, the project was part of a CIP-community initiated project. This means that instead of being part of the normal MCC /POMC budget, an individual or community gave money for the specific purpose of building this dam. It is neat to see individual initiative in serving the community here, though in many ways it is a lot of hassle for MCC and it preempts the normal planning process (instead of doing the projects that the community decided were top priorities, the money is directed by what the DONOR wants done).
Anyway, after driving about 2-3 hours in a land cruiser packed to the gills (about 12 people in 7 seats) we arrived at Mariani. Along the way we saw Zebras, Gazelles, and trees that got knocked down by elephants (though no elephants). Our first stop was at a local school where we delivered some porridge mix (just add water) which would be distributed to the children. Imagine walking 7km each way to school, on an empty stomach- many teachers reported children fainting in class-this is real poverty. Even a single meal of porridge each day can radically help students learn and grow.
Our second stop was the dam. About 100 women had come to do a food-for-work project, collecting stones on the hillside and placing them on the banks of the dam. The rocks prevent the dam from filling with silt and help hold the banks in place. This is intense and very manual labor. Steph immediately starting helping the women carry rocks and made for a very efficient worker. I was busy talking with a group of young men who discovered that I spoke Maasai. First, a man my age noticed my belt. Most Maasai wear ornate beaded belts and I have been looking for a chance to get one. Well this guy offered to trade belts with me. I was happy to get a beautiful belt in exchange for my plain leather belt. I proceeded to walk around the dam, being greeted by many clumps of women who were all amazed that a white man spoke Maasai.
Eventually, I came upon a group of Morans. Morans are the traditional warriors in Maasai society, and are younger men (20-35ish?). They tend to wear the traditional shuka, often purple or red, as well as carrying a sword, walking stick/club, and sometimes even a spear. One moran came up to me, noticed I spoke Maasai, and asked what age group I am part of. All men are part of an age group, and each age group covers a 10 year range. Boys in each age group are seen as one “generation”, they pass through all the traditional ceremonies together, and they move from childhood, moranhood, to junior elder and then elder together. Anyway, the age group I’m a part of is called Olmeruesi which spans men who are around 17-27 (I think) right now. Once I told this moran that I was Olmeruesi, he was incredibly excited that 1. I knew what an age group was and 2. I was in the same group as him. We were immediately brothers. He took me by the hand, showing me off to all his friends. He pointed to various objects and asked “Keja ena” –(what is that) to see which things I knew the Maasai words for. He was so impressed by me that he gave me a big beaded bracelet (traditionally worn by Maasai) and even promised to give me three of his goats!
Once the work on the dam was done for the day, we ate some fresh meat, some “imotori” (fat dripping soup) and shai. We walked to the top of the nearby hill and could see for miles and miles. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful land. And in the midst of the land was the dam, with life-giving water for this community. As we headed home, we were blessed by one more neat experience. Our car full of men (plus steph) started to sing hymns. I just love the Maasai way of singing, its fluid, its organic, its like each person singing their own song and they weave together their voices into one fabric of song. They all knew the words by heart and these men could sing. I was once again reminded that we work for the living God who made men of every tribe and every tongue. He is truly God of all.
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